上海滩

Used clothing from the West a big seller in East Africa. Uganda's leader wants a ban_我的网站

A |     这里是刘小顺的旅行和生活研究所。    KAMPALA, Uganda -- Jostling for space, people jam the crowded footpaths crisscrossing a massive open market in Uganda's capital. They are mostly looking for secondhand clothing, sifting through underwear for pairs that seem new or trying on shoes despite getting pushed around in the crush.Downtown Kampala’s Owino Market has long been a go-to enclave for rich and poor people alike looking for affordable but quality-made used clothes, underscoring perceptions that Western fashion is superior to what is made at home. Discarded by Europeans and Americans, these clothes are often purchased from wholesalers and then shipped to African countries by middlemen. It's a multimillion-dollar business, with some two-thirds of people in seven countries in East Africa having “purchased at least a portion of their clothes from the secondhand clothing market,” according to a 2017 U.S. Agency for International Development study, the most recent with such details.Despite the popularity, secondhand clothes are facing increasing pushback. Ugandan President Yoweri Museveni, a semi-authoritarian leader who has held power since 1986, declared in August that he was banning imports of used clothing, saying the items are coming “from dead people.” “When a white person dies, they gather their clothes and send them to Africa,” Museveni said.Trade authorities have not yet enforced the president’s order, which needs to be backed by a legal measure such as an executive order. Other African governments also are trying to stop the shipments, saying the business amounts to dumping and undermines the growth of local textile industries. The East African Community trade bloc — consisting of Burundi, Congo, Kenya, Rwanda, South Sudan, Tanzania and Uganda — has recommended banning imports of used apparel since 2016. However, member states have not enforced it at the same pace amid pressure from Washington. In Uganda, the president's order has spread panic among traders, for whom such a ban, if implemented, spells disaster. They hawk used clothes in scores of large open-air markets across the country of 45 million people, at roadside stands and even in shops in malls where it’s possible to buy secondhand clothes marketed as new.The clothes are cheap and drop further in price as traders make room for new shipments: a pair of denim jeans can go for 20 cents, a cashmere scarf for even less.At one of Uganda’s Green Shops, a chain specializing in used clothes, apparel reseller Glen Kalungi shopped for items his customers might want: vintage pants for men and cottony tops for women.“I am a thrift shopper,” he said. “I usually come to these Green Shops to check out clothes because they have the best prices around town.”Kalungi likes to visit on clearance days when he can buy clothes for a fraction of a dollar. Then he sells them at a profit.The chain, whose owners include Europeans, unveils new clothes every two weeks at its three stores. Some of the items are sourced from suppliers in countries including China and Germany, retail manager Allan Zavuga said.“How they collect the clothes, we are not aware of that,” Zavuga said of their suppliers. “But (the clothes) go through all the verification, the fumigation, all that, before they are shipped to Uganda. And we get all documents for that.”The Green Shops are environmentally friendly because they recycle used clothes in bulk, he said.The association of traders in Kampala, known by the acronym KACITA, opposes a firm ban on used apparel, recommending a phased embargo that allows local clothing producers to build capacity to meet demand.Some Ugandan apparel makers, like Winfred Arinaitwe, acknowledge that the quality of locally made fabric is often poor. Not surprisingly, many people would rather buy used clothing, she said. "Because it lasts longer,” she said. “It can easily be seen.”In Owino Market, a ban on used clothes is inconceivable to many, including some who say they don't think the president’s threat was serious.Abdulrashid Ssuuna, who tries to persuade customers in the market to stop by his brother’s used clothing business, said a ban would deny him a livelihood.“It’s like they want to chase us out of the country,” he said of the president’s order. “From these old clothes, we get what to eat. If you say we leave this business, you are saying we go into new clothes. But we can’t afford to go there.”Ssuuna approaches people in Owino Market to urge them to visit the stall where his brother sells used jeans. The market is aggressively competitive, with merchants sitting behind heaps of clothes and shouting words of welcome to possible customers.If he helps his brother sell clothing, “I get something,” said Ssuuna, who started this work after dropping out of high school in 2020.The market is always full of shoppers, but business is unpredictable: Traders must try to anticipate what customers are looking for before they are lured by other sellers. Some days are better than others, said Tadeo Walusimbi, who has been a used-clothes trader for six years. A government ban is simply untenable, he warned. It “will not work for me and for so many people,” Walusimbi said.。         提起上海，大多数人的第一印象应该都是繁华璀璨的国际化大都市。外滩霓虹流转、陆家嘴高楼林立、南京路热闹喧嚣，百年“十里洋场”的摩登与精致，成为这座城市的经典标签。

B | 但除去繁华滤镜，上海其实还藏着许多小众独特的旅游景点，自带别样的历史底蕴与氛围感，坐落于虹口区的1933老场坊便是其中最特别的一处。         1933老场坊的前身是上海工部局宰牲场，位于虹口区沙泾路，1933年由工部局出资筹建，由英国著名设计师巴尔弗斯操刀设计，搭配国内顶尖建筑营造团队倾力打造，是民国时期上海极具规模与代表性的工业建筑。         历经百年岁月更迭，这座老旧工业建筑完成华丽蜕变，如今变身颇具格调的文创产业园。园区内入驻了各式文创小店、创意设计公司、小众网红咖啡馆，文艺氛围拉满。独特的复古工业风建筑、错落别致的空间结构、高级的冷色调质感，吸引了无数文艺青年、摄影爱好者专程前来打卡拍照，也成为了上海极具辨识度的“网红景点”。

C |          但看似清新文艺的打卡圣地，背后却藏着让人不寒而栗的过往。要知道，这里曾经是大型屠宰场，是老上海的牲畜屠宰加工核心场地，常年充斥着血腥与喧嚣，自带阴森压抑的底色。

D | 如今改造升级，为了完整保护历史遗迹，施工方最大限度保留了建筑原始结构与风貌，没有进行大面积翻新改造，原汁原味保留了百年前的建筑样貌。         整座建筑以灰黑色调为主，冷硬的水泥墙体、交错的廊道楼梯、错落的镂空结构，自带清冷肃穆的氛围。

E | 园区内部光线偏昏暗，常年温度低于室外，没有热闹的商业喧嚣，静谧空旷的环境，让整座园区多了几分诡异疏离的氛围感，难怪好多初次到访的游客，会容易心生压抑之感。         独特的复古工业风、小众出片的场景搭配厚重的历史底蕴，让1933老场坊成为众多影视剧的取景地。不少热门影视、综艺、时尚大片都在此取景拍摄，进一步带火了这个小众景点。如今这里常年挤满拍照打卡的年轻人，大家穿梭在廊道之间，寻找最佳拍摄角度，定格文艺氛围感大片，热闹的打卡场景，与建筑阴森的“前世”形成极致反差。         也因此诞生了一个有趣的争议：很多尽情摆拍、氛围感十足的游客，或许并不知道这栋建筑物的过往历史。如果大家知道这里曾经是一处充满血腥的屠宰场，会不会心生隔阂，改变打卡的心态呢？当然，新旧风貌的强烈碰撞，也让这座建筑更充满了神秘独特的魅力。         更值得一提的是，上海这样一个颜值高、底蕴足、氛围感独特的“网红景点”，却全程免费对外开放，无需门票、随意进出。但相较于外滩、豫园、迪士尼等热门景点，1933老场坊虽然相对低调冷门，但也算是属于上海的小众宝藏旅游景点了。         那么，你有没有来过上海旅游？你是否打卡过这里的1933老场坊？知道这栋建筑阴森的过往历史之后，你会不会觉得这里的氛围很“阴森”？如果以后有机会，你还愿意来这栋反差满满的百年建筑走走看看吗？欢迎大家留言评论，分享看法哦！     更多精彩内容，敬请关注：刘小顺     用有趣的角度看世界，做最有态度的旅行家。

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